If only I hadn’t
gotten so lost in a meandering way, if only I hadn’t stopped to get something
to drink, if only I hadn’t swung by Ross to get a replacement pair of cheap
flats…I may have gotten to my car 11 minutes earlier and not gotten the $36
parking ticket for the expired meter! Damn Philadelphia, I was liking you but
your parking is ridiculous and expensive. The downside of city visiting: gotta
pay if you wanna park near & safe. Oh well. Could be worse. Philly is nice.
Has a lot going on and tons of museums. I spent all day today just at ONE
museum and there was still more I could see. Tomorrow I’ll go to the Mutter and
get that Philly cheese steak, and then that is that. I’m staying with Kathryn,
one of Celia’s friends. She is out of town for a bit of my stay, but I can
still stay here! How nice is that? Very nice. I’ve also met her daughter Clare
and her son Eamon. Their house is very nice, with tons of pretty rugs and nice
tapestry on the couches and monkey wallpaper in one of the bathrooms. I love seeing
all these houses.
It was an easy
drive out here from Marietta, though I did have to pay a toll, though not the
costliest of tolls. I sat at the house and hung with Clare and Eamon for a
while, before heading downtown. I went to Reading Terminal Market, which was a
block of food stalls under one roof. Tons of restaurants of all sorts, and the
place smelled great. Very hustle and bustle. I eventually decided on artisanal
grilled cheese. A brie and pine nut and cranberry grilled cheese. It was so
good. And I finished it off with some fudge. I then wandered down to Mostly
Books, a used book shop with other used stuff. I rifled through the antique
photos. I sweated. And as I mentioned, after all my wandering and shopping I
returned to my car just a bit too late.
I didn’t linger
in the evening. I just went back to the house and showered and chatted and
tucked into bed early. Big day tomorrow!
All day was
spent at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. It was HUGE with a massive collection
of essential fine art. I parked in their lot and used my Olympic College ID to
get student discount. I peeled off the “fall 2011” sticker first. I have my
PNCA ID, but I look younger in that. If I’m going to cheat the system, I might
as well use the less obvious cheat. And it worked! Hurray!
I started with
the prints and drawings. They had some WPA prints which were lovely, even if
their registration wouldn’t have passed my standards. Then I went into the
American Art section. I totally missed The Gross Clinic on the first go around,
but I returned to it at the end of the day. Yes. The. Gross. Clinic. By Eakins.
I’ve seen so much fine art in person now. And some of it was stuff I’ve seen
when it was on tour at Portland Art Museum. I saw Vincent Van Gogh’s Sunflowers
in the European Art wing. Saw a bunch of Winslow Homer, who I didn’t know
existed till now but damn I love him. In the Modern and Contemporary Art wing I
saw a massive Alex Katz, instantly recognizable out of the corner of my eye.
The museum had
the mandatory women artists: Alice Neel, Mary Cassat, Judith Leyster, and
Berthe Morisot.
Duchamp had his
amazing section at the end of the wing. I grabbed a selfie with Nude Descending
Staircase. I think Duchamp would approve. There was The Bride Stripped Bare by
her Grooms, Even in all its shattered glory. And a recreation of R. Mutt. And
just tons of stuff I’ve seen in art books, but there! I didn’t know they had
that much in one spot, but damn there it was. And Etant Donnes was there.
Duchamp’s final piece. 20 years of work. It’s an installation that you have to
approach. There are these bar doors and you peek through a hole in the door and
you are looking at a reclining nude woman holding a glass lamp. It’s a
sculpture in the scene, though as much as you lean over, you can’t see her
face. And the figure is laying on a bed of sticks and the whole scene is
painted in the background. It’s a bit pervy, amplified by having to peep at the
art. I learned about this piece years ago and knew I’d have to see it one day.
Philadelphia has been on my list for ages. Seeing this piece was on my bucket
list. Was. I’m accomplishing on this trip things I’ve wanted to accomplish for
so long. I’ll have a short bucket list when I’m done. I still can’t believe
I’ve seen it, though I was pressed against that door for a good long while,
gawking.
There is a
Picasso Minotaur print exhibit. That was nice. I do like his line work and
intuition. And a photography exhibit devoted to the use of flash in the medium.
At the Perelman Building was a Patrick Kelly exhibit with lots of his fashion
on display. Utterly delightful! I was starting to flag but getting outside and
eating a bagel got a bit of pep in my step for the last leg of it. The museum
was open late, but my energy ran out at 5. 6 hours!
But I’m not even
done talking about the art that I saw. You see why I’m so tired? I like to take
my time and look. There was a kid who powered through the Eakins gallery just
snapping a picture of each painting and moving on, not even looking. And there
was a cluster of loud German tourists. And a kid that was whining to his mom
and wanted to go, even though it was like… noon so the kid couldn’t have been
there long. Brat!
Saw an epic
Rubens. The galleries have some exhibits that are set up like old rooms. Old Flemish
rooms, Dutch rooms, Victorian rooms. So you can see some of the stuff in
context instead of behind glass. I saw Frans Hals and a Vermeer, which was
authenticated because the canvas came from the same bolt of cloth that another
Vermeer was painted on. That is s ome CSI shit right there.
Here is a list
of artists I made note of: Antonio Fransconi, Alfred Bendier, Jacob Eichholtz,
Winslow Homer, Sir Frederick Leighton, Charlemont, Vuillard, Kay Sage Tanguy,
Noel Mahaffey, Kamisaka Sekka, Collin Son(Sun?), and George Stubbs.
I feel like I’m
forgetting something. But damn it was an epic wander of art. I got back to the
house at 6 absolutely pooped. Now I’m just going to chill. Tomorrow: Mutter
& Cheese Steak. And then probably more chilling. And then Sunday will take
me to New Jersey. Taking my time. Eight weeks! I keep forgetting to reset my
odometer, but I’m not putting on too many miles these past few days, so it
shouldn’t throw the next two weeks count all that much.